Preprints
https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-2023-2721
https://doi.org/10.5194/egusphere-2023-2721
20 Dec 2023
 | 20 Dec 2023
Status: this preprint is open for discussion.

Role of the forcing sources in morphodynamic modelling of an embayed beach

Nil Carrion-Bertran, Albert Falqués, Francesca Ribas, Daniel Calvete, Rinse de Swart, Ruth Durán, Candela Marco-Peretó, Marta Marcos, Angel Amores, Tim Toomey, Àngels Fernández-Mora, and Jorge Guillén

Abstract. The sensitivity of a 2DH coastal area (XBeach) and a reduced-complexity (Q2Dmorfo) morphodynamic models to using different forcing sources is studied. The models are tested by simulating the morphodynamic response of an embayed beach in the NW Mediterranean over a 6-month period. Wave and sea level forcing from in-situ data, propagated buoy measurements, hindcasts as well as combinations of these different data sources are used and the outputs are compared to in-situ bathymetric measurements. Results show that when the two models are calibrated with in-situ measurements, they accurately reproduce the morphodynamic evolution with a "Good" BSS (Brier Skill Score). The wave data propagated from the buoy also produces reliable morphodynamic simulations but with a slight decrease in BSS. Conversely, when the models are forced with hindcast wave data the mismatch between the modelled and observed beach evolution increases. This is attributed to a large extent to biased mean directions in hindcast waves. Interestingly, in this small tide site the accuracy of the simulations did not depend on the sea-level data source, and using filtered or non-filtered tides also yielded similar results. These results have implications for long-term morphodynamic studies, like those needed to validate models for climate change projections, emphasizing the need of using accurate forcing sources such as those obtained by propagating buoy data.

Nil Carrion-Bertran, Albert Falqués, Francesca Ribas, Daniel Calvete, Rinse de Swart, Ruth Durán, Candela Marco-Peretó, Marta Marcos, Angel Amores, Tim Toomey, Àngels Fernández-Mora, and Jorge Guillén

Status: open (until 06 Mar 2024)

Comment types: AC – author | RC – referee | CC – community | EC – editor | CEC – chief editor | : Report abuse
  • RC1: 'Comment on egusphere-2023-2721', Anonymous Referee #1, 09 Feb 2024 reply
  • RC2: 'Comment on egusphere-2023-2721', Anonymous Referee #2, 29 Feb 2024 reply
Nil Carrion-Bertran, Albert Falqués, Francesca Ribas, Daniel Calvete, Rinse de Swart, Ruth Durán, Candela Marco-Peretó, Marta Marcos, Angel Amores, Tim Toomey, Àngels Fernández-Mora, and Jorge Guillén
Nil Carrion-Bertran, Albert Falqués, Francesca Ribas, Daniel Calvete, Rinse de Swart, Ruth Durán, Candela Marco-Peretó, Marta Marcos, Angel Amores, Tim Toomey, Àngels Fernández-Mora, and Jorge Guillén

Viewed

Total article views: 248 (including HTML, PDF, and XML)
HTML PDF XML Total Supplement BibTeX EndNote
188 45 15 248 20 9 12
  • HTML: 188
  • PDF: 45
  • XML: 15
  • Total: 248
  • Supplement: 20
  • BibTeX: 9
  • EndNote: 12
Views and downloads (calculated since 20 Dec 2023)
Cumulative views and downloads (calculated since 20 Dec 2023)

Viewed (geographical distribution)

Total article views: 240 (including HTML, PDF, and XML) Thereof 240 with geography defined and 0 with unknown origin.
Country # Views %
  • 1
1
 
 
 
 
Latest update: 04 Mar 2024
Download
Short summary
The sensitivity to the wave and sea-level forcing sources in predicting a 6-month embayed beach evolution is assessed using two different morphodynamic models. After a successful model calibration using in-situ data, other sources are applied. The wave source choice is critical: hindcast data provide wrong results due to an angle bias whilst the correct dynamics is recovered with the wave conditions from an offshore buoy. The use of different sea-level sources gives no significant differences.