the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
Knowing the ocean: an epistemological and communication framework for Physical Oceanography
Abstract. Physical Oceanography is the branch of marine sciences concerned with understanding the oceans as a geophysical fluid system, focusing on the processes that govern the spatial organisation and temporal variability of momentum, heat, and mass across a wide range of scales. Knowledge in Physical Oceanography is produced through a combination of observations, theory, numerical models, and statistical inference; yet its epistemological structure remains largely implicit. This paper develops a framework to clarify how such knowledge is generated, validated, and constrained by the ocean’s vast spatial extent, continuous variability, and multiscale dynamics. We propose a two-dimensional epistemic map that classifies knowledge claims by their aim and representational form, providing a structured vocabulary for interpreting the diversity of oceanographic research. We illustrate the map with an exploratory classification of scientific synopses, and use it to read recent tendencies in the discipline. We further examine the epistemic status of oceanic numerical models and reanalysis systems, and present a case study of wind-wave spectral representation that exposes the underlying assumptions and limits of common practices. Building on these elements, we propose a diagnostic reporting template aimed at making explicit the assumptions, validation criteria, and epistemic payoff of individual studies. By rendering the epistemic structure of a result legible, the framework supports clearer interpretation, comparison, and communication of physical-oceanographic knowledge, both within the discipline and across the wider Earth-system sciences.
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Status: open (until 06 Nov 2026)
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RC1: 'Comment on egusphere-2026-4208', Anonymous Referee #1, 13 Sep 2026
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The editor and authors should understand that I read this paper not as a philosopher of science, but as an active physical oceanographer. Having said that, the paper proved far more interesting than I expected from the title, and I believe that it should be accepted, subject to the addressing of the issues described below. In many ways the paper is wildly ambitious, and consequently there are many points, large and small to consider. (The journal demand for labelling things as "major" or "minor" changes is not helpful.)Despite its length, the paper skips over any true historical view: The comment by Walter Munk does not appear until very late in the paper, but a very strong argument can be made that PO underwent a true revolution beginning in the 1970s. Line 280 finally mentions the growth of global systems. The field went from one dominated by ship-borne observations, a system that took 100+ years to scantily observe the system, and leading to the concept that it was a laminar, almost unchanging flow, best described by the static fields in the colored atlases that dominated the field for 100 years. With the technological revolution following the 1970s, the demands for understanding climate, and the field having implemented such programs as the World Ocean Circulation Experiment, the picture shifted almost completely to a system that is observed globally (in some elements) every day, was fully turbulent, and far more dependent for understanding upon the fluid dynamical equations buried in the computer codes. That this huge change did not have a zero-order bearing on e.g., the changes in Tables 1,2, is hard to believe.A related comment is that the paper ignores the sociology of the science. The technical revolution destroyed a scientific way of life built around the use of ships, with then dominant scientists being primarily naturalists who knew no mathematics and despised it, working for weeks and months in isolation on ships, and ultimately being replaced by applied mathematicians, highly trained engineers, and computer scientists, et al. and either remote from the ships, or in constant contact with the outside world if at sea. The perception of ocean physics was strongly colored by the historical ship-based culture.Some serious attention needs to be given throughout to the question of who is the likely readership and will they understand what is being said?Section 6 might be moved to an Appendix, as I wonder how many readers of the document will understand the sudden introduction of mathematical elements? The section needs to emphasize that measurements are almost always discrete and that the continuum mathematics is a theoretical crutch. (More comments below.)The authors should be aware that in the PO community, the Oreskes 2022 book is widely regarded as nonsensical. (See e.g., review by Briscoe, in Oceanography (34) P. 78+ )Smaller points:Line 86+ Why is it useful to have an "explicit theory of knowledge"? Any examples?Liine 163. The Evensen reference is to the atmosphere. Better to have an oceanographic one.:ine 169. What is the meaning of "model-mediated"?Circa line 205. The most notable difference between PO and medicine/epidemiology, economics, is that PO has an a priori descriptive set of equations in the modified Navier-Stokes system from Newtonian mechanics. Those other fields have none--relying wholly on purely empirical laws.Line 319. The discussion of observations is inadequate. Listed as "sea-truth". But there is no such thing as "truth", and there is no such thing as a pure observation. Even a mercury thermometer relies on a (simple) model, one connecting the measurement of a length (of mercury) to a temperature. Understanding the power, and limits, of observations is a hugely important ongoing part of the field. "Matching" observations can degrade a model.Line 340+ Will the reader know what "data assimilation" is? Will she understand the difference (if any) from "reanalysis"? Line 370+ A considerable literature exists pointing out that conventional data assimilation does violate the core---violating energy, mass, and other conservation laws. (Meteorological practice is a good example of a system that works well for forecasting (weather), but not useful for basic understanding of principles such as energy conservation.) Recent paper by S. Williamson and others, 2023 in Ocean Sci., has various references.Under Lakatosian reading, the "hydrostatic approximation" is hardly a core element---numerous models are non-hydrostatic, including almost all dealing with continental margins. And fluid mechanics in practice is *always* based upon a series of approximations, all of which are constantly being subjected to question.Line 485. The authors might consider the current frenzy over AMOC "shutdown" as an example of using models beyond their skill level.Line 530. Many spectra have been computed and are useful for non-sinusoidal phenomena. The sentence is confused. The section goes on to argue that the spectrum is "not directly measured", whatever that actually means. But few phenomena are directly measured: the mercury thermometer is a trivial example of the inevitable requirement of interfacing instruments and models. Another example is salinity: typically measured by conductivity. Is that a direct measurement (even ignoring the complicated circuitry of a modern salinometer)?The term "geostrophy" notoriously does not appear in Sverdrup et al. (1942).ReplyCitation: https://doi.org/
10.5194/egusphere-2026-4208-RC1
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