Wave-driven amplification of surf-zone bottom stress on rough seabeds

Abstract. The present paper proposes a unified view of the wave-driven amplification of the wave-averaged bottom shear stress in rough seabed contexts, covering both co- and opposing wave/current cases. The analysis is first based on a series of field observations performed over the Flysch rocky shore platform of Socoa. The momentum balance is examined locally, separating the net effect of the waves on the depth- and wave-averaged momentum budget, based on velocity and pressure measurements. The present observations confirm that, in the presence of a well-developed seabed roughness, the bed shear stress is an important component of the momentum balance. The results highlight two distinct regimes depending on the breaking activity due to the intricate composition between waves and mean currents in the wave averaged shear stress. In moderately developed undertow conditions, the bottom stress brings a negative contribution to the wave momentum balance, and acts to lower the mean water level, while under saturated breaking conditions the bed friction acts to increase the wave setup. A novel empirical parameterization of the mean bottom stress under combined waves and current is proposed. The in-situ findings are complemented by a series of wave-resolving simulations on idealized closed and open beaches, confirming the complex effect of waves on the time-averaged water circulation.